Hunt & Gather

It’s 5 o’clock on a Friday night, and the Hunt & Gather Raw Bar & Pub is half full. By 6:15, hungry diners fill the sidewalk outside, waiting for their spot.

Entering the restaurant, I’m confronted immediately by a life-size “major award” perched atop the bar — a fishnet leg lamp inspired by the classic holiday movie, A Christmas Story. Large canvases adorned with wild animals dressed in suits and suspenders decorate the walls, and further down the narrow dining room, taxidermied trophies observe the scene.

Here, the global menu and kitschy decor stand out versus the seafood buffets, daiquiri purveyors and mini-golf courses populating Panama City Beach’s traditional sugar sand and emerald surf setting.

Behind the bar, David, a native of Jamaica, greets people with a wide smile and welcoming conversation as he has since the restaurant opened in October 2020. He considers himself a “city boy,” but he fits in this cozy space tucked into a strip mall anchored by a Dollar General. Locals make up 90% of the crowd, even at the peak of the summer tourist season.

He spots me bellying up to the bar and brings over a glass of the white Bordeaux that I love. It’s a refreshing blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon from France that pairs perfectly with the tangy snapper ceviche I order to start. My husband settles on a pint of Idyll Hounds Divide & Conch’r IPA. There’s always a robust selection of local drafts mixed with interesting beers from spots as far away as Ireland.

The dining area exudes a swanky atmosphere with a kitschy twist. Wall art depicts wild game dressed in business atire, and cult classic movie-themed decor graces the bartop. o-table cuisine. Photo courtesy of Hunt & Gather Raw Bar & Pub

Sitting at the bar, you get a full view of the efficient operation. André handles all the cold prep, from salads to oysters to desserts, from behind the bar. Just to the right, the galley-style kitchen pulses with activity as cooks pivot among fryer baskets, a flat-top grill and skillets.

A heaping bowl of PEI (Prince Edward Island) mussels bathed in white wine, butter, basil and red chili flakes with toasted sourdough hunks for sopping up broth arrives next. André slides our wedge salad over, and I’m reminded this is definitely a shared dish. The ample shredded romaine is piled high with chunks of smoky, house-cured bacon, pickled onion, grape tomatoes and a buttermilk blue cheese dressing.

In between greeting the other bar customers and sharing entree recommendations — brown butter scallops, duck tacos and rack of elk — David checks in on us. I order a bottle of Rioja. He suggested it the first time I came to Hunt & Gather shortly after they opened. His wild dreadlocks and gregarious demeanor belie his food and wine knowledge. My usual dinner choice, the wild boar bolognese, pairs well with the Spanish red. I order the pasta dish “spicy” on David’s recommendation. The creamy San Marzano sauce flecked with crushed red pepper coats handmade pasta studded with slow-roasted wild boar, and freshly grated pecorino provides a nutty note to the whole affair.

Owner Derek Langford prioritizes a quality oyster selection with a half-shell menu listing source locations and flavor profiles ranging from salty and slightly sweet to nutty with a mild salinity. Photo courtesy of Hunt & Gather Raw Bar & Pub

My daughter orders the lamb lollipops (another great foil for that Rioja). The kitchen has reached elegant whirling dervish speed, and the lamb arrives quickly. Saffron-poached pear slivers mingle with peppery arugula and set the stage for the tender chops. Stripes of saba (a condiment made from leftover grape mash after the wine is produced) lend acid and balance to the herb-laden za’atar crust and creamy goat cheese sauce.

Chicken liver pate. Photo courtesy of Hunt & Gather Raw Bar & Pub

Peeking over to the kitchen, I notice chef and owner Derek Langford studying the bob-and-weave flow of the cooks. Satisfied, he turns to the tables, sauntering through the cozy dining room, stopping to greet familiar faces and settling in at a table up front to chat with local friends. Langford finds inspiration for his menu from farms around this area. He enjoys relationships built with people growing the oysters, raising game and producing local cheeses and honey.

I am sated with delicious dinner and wine, but still the crème brûlée cheesecake calls. André pulls out his blowtorch and produces a golden crackle crust before passing the dessert to us. Freshly piped whipped cream rosettes topped with blackberries and strawberries create a textural counterpoint to the smooth cheesecake, and the wine still pairs perfectly.

Chef and owner, Derek Langford. Photo courtesy of Hunt & Gather Raw Bar & Pub

» Wagyu and More

Restaurateur Derek Langford has added a butcher shop and market behind Hunt & Gather. Cases are stocked with many of the meats featured on the restaurant’s menu plus cuts of bison, American wagyu, Japanese wagyu and more. Shelves feature a carefully curated selection of wines, sauces and cheeses. Shoppers can pick up everything needed to cook a nice dinner at home, including the latest addition to the menu: caviar.