Timeless Tartan

The age-old style transcends generations and fashion genres

On the 2024 fall fashion runways, almost everyone was pretty in plaid for cold-weather wear.

Designer Chloé favored the fulllength wool coat in neutral-shaded tartan with a turtleneck collar. Anna Sui put a vintage, ’70s twist on the preppy plaid skirt and vest set, paired with fun patterned accents. Antonio Marras showcased a picnicstyle black-and-white plaid full-length dress with a matching heel. Christian Dior kept it preppy and chic with wool plaid sets and jackets. Michael Kors was all business with a blazer and pencil skirt plaid set.

But what of it translates to everyday wear and styling? No matter your fashion genre, local vintage fashion expert Valorie Taylor said tartan classics work for everyone.

“I don’t think there’s really a set of rules with plaid,” said Taylor, co-owner of Rocket to Saturn Vintage in Downtown Pensacola. “You can wear it any time of year. You can use it with any outfit. You can incorporate it in a lot of things.”

The timeless look’s history dates back to 1500s Scotland where tartans were designed to represent Scottish clans or families. But Taylor noted that plaid entered the forefront of modern fashion with the introduction of Burberry’s tartan design, trademarked in 1924. The signature camel, red, white, and black design has since found its way to purses, coats, scarves, and more.

But Taylor believes plaid went mainstream with early punk styles.

“In the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s, Vivienne Westwood, at her shop in England, she helped create and incorporate the punk style in couture and runway,” Taylor said.

Fashion designer Westwood first garnered attention when ’70s English punk rock band the Sex Pistols wore her creations. She became widely credited as an architect of punk fashion.

“Punks used it as a rebellious thing,” Taylor said. “Adding plaid into something that is considered couture seemed more rebellious back then.”

But plaid’s practical origins are what make the pattern so timeless.

“It’s one of those things like denim—it’s one of those pieces that you can wear whenever” she added.

To go in on the punk vibes, Taylor suggested a bold pant featuring two opposing plaids in different colors, similar, she explained, to a jester’s “party coloring” two-tone pants from the medieval era. Pair it with a torn or worn band tee, combat boots, a studded belt, and a leather or denim jacket.

Or, she said, go grunge with a wide-leg jean, oversized band tee, and flannel tied around the waist paired with skater sneakers for good measure.

For a more put-together look, Taylor enjoys going bold and said matching suits, sets and vests aren’t exclusive to runway models. She noted a plaid vest with a button- up blouse underneath as a perfect look for holiday gatherings.

But when it comes to staples, the blazer wins the timeless tartan title.

“The blazer is the one,” Taylor said.

A plaid blazer can easily become the statement piece of the outfit. Taylor recommends buying vintage blazers to find quality pieces that can last you for decades more to come. But don’t let size or the inevitable shoulder pad steer you away. Tailoring is often inexpensive, and shoulder pads are easy to remove and can be sewn back in later, if desired.

“I love shoulder pads,” Taylor said. “Having a structured shoulder makes me feel powerful. But some people don’t need it.”

From there, complement with neutrals, then define the outfit’s attitude with accessories.

“Truthfully, it’s all about the accessories at the end of the day,” she said.

Depending on your outing destination, you can pair the look with a boot, sneakers, or heels to create a warmer, more casual, or dressy outfit. When styling a feminine look with menswear styles like vintage plaid jackets, blazers, and flannels, you can create balance by adding feminine accents like a lace blouse or tank, a bow, or flower at the neck, heels, or use other accessories.

“If you want to make a statement, make a statement with the plaid,” Taylor said. “But if you want the plaid jacket to be the statement, then keep everything else simple.”

You can pull a pop of color from the plaid pattern by adding accessories to match. For example, with a Burberry plaid, you might opt for a red purse or boots to complement.

“If you’re going to go bold, go bold!” Taylor encouraged. “Fashion is not set in stone; you can do whatever you want.”

While confidence is often key when selecting a look outside of our comfort zone, Taylor said, “If you put it on and it makes you happy, the confidence will come.”

Break out that timeless tartan blazer, and don’t wait to rock that perfect plaid set you can never seem to find the right occasion for.

“You should treat every day as a special occasion,” she continued, “because you only get so many.”

So, wear it!

MODELS PICTURED: Lily Sexton, Lexie Fuller, Anita Leskanich, Natalie Burger, Brent Davidson

PHOTOGRAPHED IN: Downtown Pensacola

STYLED BY: Rocket to Saturn Vintage

Timeless Investments: A vintage clothing business owner, Valorie Taylor is an expert in timeless styles. From her experience, shopping secondhand is always best for cost and quality. But when shopping outside of the thrift shops, Taylor suggests gravitating toward brands selling not only a timeless look, but a long-lasting investment. “Don’t go to those fast-fashion brands,” she said. “I always suggest going to brands that have quality, especially when it comes to the fabrics, and something that will last forever.” She suggests brands including J Crew, Ann Taylor, and Pendelton. “Pendelton—we could talk all day about Pendelton.” Crafting high-quality wool products since the 1800s, the Oregon-based brand is known for investment wool pieces, including plaid flannels, skirts, and more. “Pendelton kind of helped create a wave of all of the plaids,” Taylor said. Her favorite Pendelton piece, a blue-and-green flannel wool shirt, she likes to dress up and pair with an oversized navy blazer, dark denim pants, and cowboy boots during colder weather.