Good Scents

In the opening scene of Nose, a 2021 documentary following the creative process of Dior perfumer François Demachy, Demachy stands amidst fields of green patchouli in Indonesia. There’s nothing fancy here, no laboratory or sparkling bottles, just a nose and a feeling.

“I find it quite moving to witness this,” he says (in French). “This is where it all begins for perfume.” 

Demachy is not the first, nor the last, to be moved in this way. He stands at the head of an eternally fascinating process: the way our bodies and minds react to scent. 

We often associate personal fragrances with the power to externalize our inner selves. However, what if we could reverse this impression, allowing fragrances to shape our moods and habits?

Fragrance application is often part of a ritual—for instance, getting ready for the day or even before a concentration-activating event like athletic training. Fragrance can equally be a part of our self-care ritual, recentering us when we fall out of sync. 

UPLIFTING

If you’re feeling down or sluggish, a spritz can pick you back up. When browsing for a cheerful fragrance, look for top, middle, and base notes that invoke lighthearted playfulness. 

Fruits and bright herbs are popular top notes for this purpose but are best smelled on a case-by-case basis—lemon and peppermint, for instance, sometimes lean into cleaning-product territory. Pear is an unexpected choice for its creamy, optimistic sweetness. Coconut, basil, and mango feel fun and carefree. Try eucalyptus, lotus, or sea salt if you want to feel refreshed. 

Floral notes are typically classified as middle notes. Look for a tropical flower like ylang-ylang or gardenia for a transportive effect. Neroli and jasmine feel more thoughtful, but their effervescent elegance is addicting. 

Lighter base notes will ground the fragrance without darkening or thickening it. Sandalwood is a classic choice and perfect for striking that balance. Vetiver brings some calming grassiness to the equation. If you’re looking for a “second skin” feel, look for a musk note.

GROUNDING 

After a long day at work or dashing between errands, the right scent can help us transition from “go time” to “downtime.” The goal is to feel calm but still curious and open-hearted.

Tea top notes, like chamomile, white tea, or matcha, can be just as relaxing as brewing a hot cup with honey. Alternatively, green notes like angelica, galbanum, and fig leaf immediately take us to a lush, natural space. 

Blending top and middle notes, warmer herbs like sage and rosemary evoke the feeling of home while maintaining a certain freshness. If you’re comforted by spices like cardamom and black pepper, they’re excellent  choices in this category. As for florals, lavender blends well with almost anything. 

Base notes will carry a composition meant to relax and restore. If you like woods, cedar, guaiac, and oak have depth in spades. Softer base notes like tonka bean will put you in the mood to cuddle up. And, of course, there’s the mystical Indonesian patchouli, reminiscent of incense and reflection. 

DIY Fragrance 

For those with a DIY streak, creating your own fragrance blend is simple. Invest in a set of high-quality essential oils, a carrier like perfumer’s alcohol, and some small bottles and pipettes. 

For an added perk, you can easily convert your custom scent to a body scrub, laundry scent booster, home spray, or even a candle. 

Here are two ideas for emotionally regulating fragrance blends. When mixing, keep in mind the “30-50-20” rule: The fragrance formulation should contain 30 percent top note oils, 50 percent middle note oils, and 20 percent base note oils. 

An uplifting scent: 

The Ambling Bee

Top notes: Grapefruit

Middle notes: Jasmine, neroli 

Base notes: Cypress, mugwort 

Description: If an aperitif with sunshine is your brand of cheer, try this one on. Grapefruit puts a sharper, saltier edge on traditional fruity top notes, while jasmine and neroli are reminiscent of carefree summers. At the base, the unique cypress and mugwort are earthy and clean at once. The result: a breeze through an open window. 

A grounding scent: 

the Half-Finished Book 

Top notes: Chamomile, rosemary

Middle notes: Black pepper, white orchid

Base notes: Cedarwood

Description: Subtly sweet, spicy, and warm—there’s something reassuring but equally curiosity-inducing about this blend. The softness of chamomile and white orchid meld nicely with the tickle of rosemary and black pepper, adding texture to your restorative moment—think of sinking deep into your favorite chair at sunset, reflecting on your next chapter.